Over the High Atlas Mountains

Our journey today, was a little over 200 km long and took us over the High Atlas Mountains to the rural town of Ouarzazate.

We left at 8.30 am after a nice breakfast at our Riad and soon reached the foothills of these rugged mountains. This area is very desert-like so the vegetation was sparse and the little villages that we passed looked to be small and isolated.

The High Atlas Mountains derive their name from the ancient Greek mythological figure Atlas. He was a Titan who was condemned to hold up the sky for eternity. This imagery of carrying a heavy burden resonates with the towering heights of this mountain range. The term “Atlas” was later adopted by various cultures to denote this mountain range in Morocco, which is characterised by its significant elevations and rugged terrain. The High Atlas is famous for its stunning landscapes, diverse ecosystems, and cultural Berber heritage significance.

Along the way, we passed many of the small Berber villages.  Berbers are considered to be one of the indigenous peoples of North Africa, with traces of their presence in the region dating back to prehistoric times. Archaeological evidence suggests that they lived in Morocco long before the arrival of other civilizations. In the 19th and early 20th centuries, European powers, particularly France and Spain, began to establish control over Morocco and this period was marked by the suppression of Berber culture and language as the French implemented policies favoring Arabic. After Morocco gained independence in 1956, the Berber identity and language continued to face challenges. The Moroccan government has historically promoted Arabisation, often sidelining Berber languages and culture.

We stopped at a lookout over one village and we could see women doing their washing far below us in the mountain stream.

In the hills above, we could see a shepherd minding a herd of goats that were grazing on what lttle grass as available. These people are very poor and life is not easy for them.

As we climbed further up the mountains, the road became steep and winding. However, it gave us some spectacular views.

Eventually, we reached a pass that marks the highest point on the road – about 2,200 metres. That is about the same height as Australia’s tallest mountain, Mt Kosciusko, however, the peaks were still well above our heads.

A narrow dirt road took us to a remote village where we stopped for lunch. I had a very tasty targine of beef and vegetables. This village once boasted a a Kasbah or a type of fortress or citadel. Originally, kasbahs served as defensive strongholds for local populations. Many were strategically located on hilltops or near vital trade routes to protect against invasions and attacks. Many were constructed by Berber tribes and are a deep part of the region’s history. They actually represent the historical power structures and social organization of Berber society.

The one in this village was severly dmamaged by a major earthquake in September 2023. As a result, the village has lost its main source of income and the people struggle to make ends meet through agriculture and some spinning and weaving.

Some villages that we could see from the roadside look to be severly damaged. Some house are being replaced with concrete ones but many are just crumbling away.

The colours in the mountains reminded me of our previous driving trip through Arizona.

We made an unscheduled final stop at the Atlas Studios near Ouarzazate. Morocco has become a major film making country. A brief 45 minute tour took us through the sets of various recent movies such as Cleopatra, Gladiator 2 and Jesus.  Some of these sets took three months, or so, to create just for a few minutes of movie shooting. While they looked very genuine, they were really made of plaster and wood.

We eventually reached our Riad for the night just after sunset, checked into our rooms and enjoyed another targine dinner. This is our third night without alcohol but it will probably help me find my way back to the front door tomorrow. This place is a bit of a maze of rooms. I’m on the second floor, so I guess that I just need to find some stairs and head down to where the reception area might be.