Akaroa and the Banks Peninsula

There area around Akaroa is very historic and very scenic. We had time today to explore some more of the local area around the ancient volcano and the harbour

We began our day by driving a short distance to the Akaroa Lighthouse. Although completed in 1879, it has only been at its current location for 40 years. It originally stood 10km away on the Akaroa Heads, at the entrance to the harbour, until it was retired and moved to its present location for ornamental purposes.

It didn’t take very long to look around the main town area as Akaroa is quite compact. There is no shortage of cute houses and historic buildings here.

It was a lovely sunny day (unlike yesterday with low cloud and mist) so we decided to retrace our drive along the peninsula’s tourist road. The scenery was the same but the light was much brighter.

We followed a couple of roads to little bays on the outer edge of the volcanic rim and came across some charming little places. Okains Bay, for example, still had its old general store and post office. The general store was rather basic but we were able to grab a pie and sausage roll for lunch. The Post Office still has a notice from the days of Queen Victoria.

The little stone church with its slate tiled roof wasn’t open but it looked to be still used and very well kept.

We couldn’t get to the beach as the track was very sandy and difficult to walk on.

We also visited another bay at Little Akaloa which we reached down a very steep and narrow road. At least at this beach, we had a view of the water.

By late afternoon we had returned to Akaroa and stopped to take a photo of the local war memorial. I’ve stopped at many memorials in little towns, but this one takes the cake in terms of grandeur. I think that WW1 had more impact on NZ than it did on Australia and other Commonwealth countries.

On a nearby tourist sign, I read about a church in a village of Onuku, that was the first non demonisation church built in the country. We drove along the harbour for about 5 km to this little village that had a strong Māori presence.

Aside from a backdrop of the Banks Peninsula hills and a foreground of grazing cows, this neatly painted Christian church would be unremarkable if it wasn’t for the stunning Māori carvings that adorn the church’s entrance. Here, two contrasting architectural styles create a striking visual symbol of two very different cultures coming together.  

We couldn’t stop for long in the village as it was clear that preparations were under way for a large event. There were ‘no parking’ signs as along the road and a large marquee was being erected with seating for a few hundred people. We found out on tonight’s TV news that tomorrow is Waitangi Dayand it will be celebrated here with the Prime Minister and every dignitary in NZ attending.

Waitangi Day commemorates the day on which the British signed a treaty with hundreds of Māori tribes to create British governance over New Zealand. In practice, it’s celebrated a bit like Australia Day and tomorrow is a nation-wide public holiday.

We couldn’t leave this beautiful town without a fancy dinner of some sort and we ate at a restaurant named Ma Maison which has some of the best views in town across the harbour. The menu focuses on seasonal local ingredients, with a French twist and we enjoyed our meal very much.

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